just waking up to this...
very sorry for his family's loss
that outer reef pic is one of the biggest waves I have ever seen surfed, period....maybe Brock Little's Waimea tube compares..maybe.
it was Mavericks, but it could easily have been Pipe, see photo of giant Pipe bomb in thread
these guys surf the razor's edge, and although they do not want death, they know it's possible in numerous locations and conditions they regularly paddle out in; we as spectators know it.
but then again, you can kill yourself on 3 ft sandbars
hard to make sense of it...that photo of him and his daughter longboarding has my mind completely twisted right now
thoughts and prayers to his family and friends