TRI FINS ARE DANGEROUS
Tom Curren status
Reged: 01/10/02
Posts: 12997
Loc: Pavement, CA USA
|
|
The surf is going to be good every single day at every surf spot in the world in 2009.
Go!
--------------------
Surfboard Blog: Surfy Surfy
|
rfe
Nep status
Reged: 07/15/03
Posts: 866
Loc: right around the corner
|
|
How is your spot today? 
--------------------
Too many clowns, not enough circuses
|
nkpheous
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 04/07/08
Posts: 2950
Loc: Huntington Beach
|
|
rj's early am. creepy fun fog session. tough to wake up but had some fun waist high waves with two friends. great start to 09'. my goal this year is 300 sessions.
here's to good waves and good friends 
|
zawa2000
Legend (inyourownmind)
Reged: 12/31/04
Posts: 332
Loc: Home of Bicycle Riding Winos
|
|
Quote:
rj's early am. creepy fun fog session. tough to wake up but had some fun waist high waves with two friends. great start to 09'. my goal this year is 300 sessions.
here's to good waves and good friends
I surfed a little north from there...parked for free! I was planning to buy a new pass but apparently state has no $$$ to print more  
|
nkpheous
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 04/07/08
Posts: 2950
Loc: Huntington Beach
|
|
i have only one month left on my pass 
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
|
|
ifallalot
Duke status
Reged: 12/17/08
Posts: 17981
Loc: Carlsbad, CA
|
|
Quote:
I mind surfed this morning. 4-5' and perfect. It was really warm and the water was clear. I was the only one out at Rincon and had the waves to myself. The Statue of Liberty was buried down the beach a ways, the hot silent chick was tanning on the beach. Great start for the year!
haha I watched the marathon last night too.
so we stay on topic here, I'm waiting for the tide to drop, but the Rose Bowl starts soon... decisions decisions
--------------------
The only two things in life that make it worth livin is guitars tuned good and firm feelin women
|
need 4 speed
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 11/01/03
Posts: 2687
Loc: SoCal
|
|
Me too.A few high tide bowls
hoping for a bit more tomorrow
--------------------
NOT THAT KIND
|
TRI FINS ARE DANGEROUS
Tom Curren status
Reged: 01/10/02
Posts: 12997
Loc: Pavement, CA USA
|
|
High tide noon session with funky wind and a hundred mushy waves with my Dad, Manolo Caro, Tyler Warren and his hot teenage girlfriend. Head clearing crisp cold. Longboards. Coffee and blueberry pancakes after. Now we have to finish the keg from last night.
--------------------
Surfboard Blog: Surfy Surfy
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
|
|
need 4 speed
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 11/01/03
Posts: 2687
Loc: SoCal
|
|
just you and the landlord
--------------------
NOT THAT KIND
|
Havoc
Tom Curren status
Reged: 09/10/07
Posts: 10000
Loc: The OC Life
|
|
Yeah, I couldn't surf normal knowing what lurks beneath
Had a funky mushy knee high longboard day yesterday the last day of 08' waves were pretty bad but I caught a ton on the log. Tried to ride my zamora hp fish right after and literally could not paddle nor surf worth anything after a few sess's on the wrongboard. Think I'm gonna stick to the fishcuit and twinzer on the small days from now on... wrongboarding allows me to get a ton of waves at the expense of not being able to surf worth a darn on a shortie... goodbye darkside hello 09' and some waves finally!!! Hope y'all got some good stuff too!
Havoc
--------------------
"motions of rippage is initated by the hind leg"-Northern_Shores
"Lemme know. I got endson gas"-20W
|
BrownFish
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 03/04/05
Posts: 2686
|
|
Quote:
High tide noon session with funky wind and a hundred mushy waves with my Dad, Manolo Caro, Tyler Warren and his hot teenage girlfriend. Head clearing crisp cold. Longboards. Coffee and blueberry pancakes after. Now we have to finish the keg from last night.
Name Dropper 
Waited for the fog to clear, then paddled out in fun knee to waist high surf. Rode the Josh Hall Log. That board just gets better and better. Took a good week to get used to the change, but since then, have gotten some of the best noserides I've had since KC used to shape em. Fun two hour session of Loggin.
--------------------
www.brownfishhandplanes.com/
|
kai kane
Legend (inyourownmind)
Reged: 05/15/03
Posts: 308
Loc: pacific
|
|
Hit the road early yesterday morning to start the New Year right and escape the local flatness. Headed to a swell magnet with newly formed sandbars. I was the first one in the lot and couldn't see a thing in the fog. I made the trek down the beach anyway and it was a surreal scene with the sun peeking through the fog once in a while. Finally got to the spot and was greeted with some inconsistent but really fun waves when they came. Stayed out for about 3 hours and headed home with a big smile.
|
Niega
Legend (inyourownmind)
Reged: 02/14/02
Posts: 277
Loc: Euskadi
|
|
My first surf of the year took place today in Anglet: waist high at best, not much wind and some fun zippers in the rip. It could have been worse.
Niegà
--------------------
Niegà
|
need 4 speed
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 11/01/03
Posts: 2687
Loc: SoCal
|
|
Small&weak a the usual local this morning.Decided to pass.
--------------------
NOT THAT KIND
|
rice
Duke status
Reged: 07/02/02
Posts: 17776
Loc: CA
|
|
Surfed really, REALLY fun waves at a well-formed bar around here on New Years Day; headhigh+, offshore lefts that allowed for 4 or 5 whacks and then got more and more hollow toward the end. Fun little tube section.
Hoping for a repeat this afternoon.
Stoked!
|
Hdip
Gerry Lopez status
Reged: 04/23/05
Posts: 1095
Loc: Malibu, CA
|
|
Sure I live in LA County but I'm tempted to drive up to the central coast in my lust for waves. I haven't surfed in way to long.
|
rice
Duke status
Reged: 07/02/02
Posts: 17776
Loc: CA
|
|
The water is stupid cold.
|
Oceanslide
Miki Dora status
Reged: 03/04/08
Posts: 5184
Loc: Oceanside, CA
|
|
Quote:
Surfed really, REALLY fun waves at a well-formed bar around here on New Years Day; headhigh+, offshore lefts that allowed for 4 or 5 whacks and then got more and more hollow toward the end. Fun little tube section.
Hoping for a repeat this afternoon.
Stoked!
I hate you.
Knee-high mushburgers here for, oh, about the 20th
day in a row! 
--------------------
"Surfing reminds us of how good life is."
Oceansliding
|
HopperNash
Billy Hamilton status
Reged: 04/01/08
Posts: 1452
|
|
Quote:
This is what I started my New Year with...
Couldn't roust anybody out to share it with so
I went solo. 
Hell, if I lived closer, I would have paddled out with you. Didn't even bother yesterday as it was looking rather ugly. Today isn't much better. I think the Central Coast got what I got January 1, 2008.
|
morgan2
Gerry Lopez status
Reged: 03/17/08
Posts: 973
Loc: santa bruta
|
|
longboarded 1 ft rincon yesterday. foggy as, with 4 other guys out. 2 shortboarders 
long, glassy, perfect rights through shallow kelp...
my friend and i agreed that if it was 2 inches smaller it would have been unridable.
occassional 1 1/4 ft. 1 wave sets.
shot a roll of moody bw film in my nikkormat slr...
will post some photos for you guys to laugh at me 
--------------------
website | facebook
|
Hdip
Gerry Lopez status
Reged: 04/23/05
Posts: 1095
Loc: Malibu, CA
|
|
52 degree air and water around the same. 1-2 foot zuma. No push at all. 1 wave kinda worth riding in the one hour session.
|
TRI FINS ARE DANGEROUS
Tom Curren status
Reged: 01/10/02
Posts: 12997
Loc: Pavement, CA USA
|
|
Air 50 and water 55. 1 ft longboard lines. Can I wear booties now?
--------------------
Surfboard Blog: Surfy Surfy
|
Basswave
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 08/22/05
Posts: 2316
Loc: Near the Witches
|
|
Quote:
Air 50 and water 55. 1 ft longboard lines. Can I wear booties now?
Water 55 and you want to put on booties.
Come to Boston 
--------------------
I'm back...Sort of...
Its nothing that 6' and a Rounded pin can't fix.
|
Basswave
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 08/22/05
Posts: 2316
Loc: Near the Witches
|
|
Quote:
I mind surfed this morning. 4-5' and perfect. It was really warm and the water was clear. I was the only one out at Rincon and had the waves to myself. The Statue of Liberty was buried down the beach a ways, the hot silent chick was tanning on the beach. Great start for the year!
Linda Harrison is/was one of the hottest women of the world...
--------------------
I'm back...Sort of...
Its nothing that 6' and a Rounded pin can't fix.
|
sh3
Gerry Lopez status
Reged: 11/30/08
Posts: 1041
|
|
48* air temp, 55* (that's a guestimate) water. Didn't expect to find anything and was pleasantly surprised by Oxtura, once again. Sure it smelled like greasy flatulence, but the high going low going back to high conditions were GREAT for the Zamora HP fish. Could've gotten away with the Griff on a few waves, but overall the HP fish is still the go-to board. Had more than a few fun waves up to chest high, some super fun backside floats & hits, and even a 101 Fins moment with a guy on a Hoyte. Good times.
-sh3
--------------------
Me Blog>>> ShShSh
|
skip
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 03/09/04
Posts: 2301
|
|
Cool, we'll be there checking it from now on.. 
|
sh3
Gerry Lopez status
Reged: 11/30/08
Posts: 1041
|
|
Quote:
Cool, we'll be there checking it from now on..
Please do. It was crazy solo'ing with my friend G despite the cracking walls! Ponto is THE place!
Edited for fun by sh3.
--------------------
Me Blog>>> ShShSh
|
Havoc
Tom Curren status
Reged: 09/10/07
Posts: 10000
Loc: The OC Life
|
|
surfed choppy stormy junk today... brought 2 boards, my 9'6" log and my Fiscuit. Rode the log and had a fun time cruising down the line on the fat windswell occasional south swell peak coming through... swapped to the fishcuit for a frustrating hour... board felt corky, had trouble getting into waves and tweaked my shoulder... I fell on 2/4 waves and can't ride a shortboard to save my life... damn weak winter waves have killed my ability (plus all the food and drinks over the last 2 weeks). Frustrating to say the least...
Gonna try again tomorrow w/ the zamora hp fish... please let there be a wave over waist high
Havoc
--------------------
"motions of rippage is initated by the hind leg"-Northern_Shores
"Lemme know. I got endson gas"-20W
|
DougMoody
Legend (inyourownmind)
Reged: 05/04/06
Posts: 449
|
|
South VC beachbreak. Paddled out as it got better, than worse, than a lot better. Gat a very suprising little barrel. Got out as it got worse again. Nothing really memorable about the session except that it exceeded my expectations and it's always good to get wet.
Got work related trips to Hawaii, Brazil and Indo scheduled for this year so it looks like 2009 is going to shape up just fine.
|
caramel_Sea
Nep status
Reged: 05/29/08
Posts: 582
Loc: Not so choppy FL?
|
|
Florida was head high yesterday! Take that you once surf drenched californians
Of course today is pretty much flat so i cant really rub it in. Im sure soon enough the n. pacific will be back to normal.
So far 10 hours of surf for me in 2009 all on a keel 
--------------------
Iron Maiden has a private jet
|
SurfZombie
Tom Curren status
Reged: 06/29/04
Posts: 14198
|
|
Surfed fun, walled up beach break today alternating between my 6'2" Brownfish twinny and my 6'4" Shipman 2+1. REALLY fun session and hell of a way to kick off '09.
Surfing my gf's 5'9" MSF and that'll be session #2 tomorrow morning. Hopefully this year will see a lot more time in this diary as last year was just limited.
Aloha
Bryan
|
ifallalot
Duke status
Reged: 12/17/08
Posts: 17981
Loc: Carlsbad, CA
|
|
small and crowded, but a little more size than I've seen in a while with more consistency. But Jesus its been crowded. I need to go up north in the morning before the winds come up so I can get some alone time. Too bad I'm in Phoenix for 3 days; maybe when I get back some swell will hit
--------------------
The only two things in life that make it worth livin is guitars tuned good and firm feelin women
|
Niega
Legend (inyourownmind)
Reged: 02/14/02
Posts: 277
Loc: Euskadi
|
|
2 to 3 ft faces at Donosti's Zurriola beach. Slightly on-shore and a wee bit unsettled. Cold... but not as much as it looked like. Thanx God for the rocket!
Niegà
--------------------
Niegà
Edited by Niega (01/04/09 10:06 AM)
|
sh3
Gerry Lopez status
Reged: 11/30/08
Posts: 1041
|
|
Air 27*, Water 52*. 4/3/2 Matuse, 3 mil booties, 2 mil hood, Doc's pro plugs. It was coooold. Pretty well North of home. Caught some good stuff on the GG 5 fin, with 2 lefts in particular making the morning memorable. Only 5 guys out; came in after 2+ hours, and got the respected head nod from grumpy surly local #1. Good day. Two thumbs up.
--------------------
Me Blog>>> ShShSh
|
silentbutdeadly
Tom Curren status
Reged: 09/26/05
Posts: 11629
Loc: Tower 13
|
|
It's about time I actually got some surfing in today. I've surfed about 3-4 times tops in the last month and I wouldn't call any of them memorable until today. Surfed with Shiver_Me_Timbers at a San Diego beachbreak. Water was cold but the air wasn't bad. There was a good pack to the north of us and a mild pack to the south of us. I saw a couple of corners in front of us with no one out so we were on it. Racey walls that met up with the inside hole. The smaller ones were weak but the larger ones stood up and were fun. We traded waves for a couple of hours and for the most part had a peak to ourselves.
Highlights were a couple of nice top turns that displaced a good amount of water and a grab rail tailslide reverse that was pretty damn close to being made  . Some day. Some day!
Also seeing Shiver_Me_Timbers stocked on his new 6'3" thruster was cool as well. The board has a couple of different tweaks with the rocker and concave that really make the board scoot. He was flying.
Gawd dangit it felt good to get back in the water!!!
Oh yeah, surfed the 6'1" launcher and it was perfect.
--------------------
Thou shall not commit adulthood
|
shiver_me_timbers
Miki Dora status
Reged: 03/20/06
Posts: 4616
Loc: San Laguna Diego Niguel
|
|
Quote:
It's about time I actually got some surfing in today. I've surfed about 3-4 times tops in the last month and I wouldn't call any of them memorable until today. Surfed with Shiver_Me_Timbers at a San Diego beachbreak. Water was cold but the air wasn't bad. There was a good pack to the north of us and a mild pack to the south of us. I saw a couple of corners in front of us with no one out so we were on it. Racey walls that met up with the inside hole. The smaller ones were weak but the larger ones stood up and were fun. We traded waves for a couple of hours and for the most part had a peak to ourselves.
Highlights were a couple of nice top turns that displaced a good amount of water and a grab rail tailslide reverse that was pretty damn close to being made . Some day. Some day!
Also seeing Shiver_Me_Timbers stocked on his new 6'3" thruster was cool as well. The board has a couple of different tweaks with the rocker and concave that really make the board scoot. He was flying.
Gawd dangit it felt good to get back in the water!!!
What SBD said,except it was my first time in the water in 3+ weeks. Just work'n the cobwebs out. Stoked to have our own peak. Here's to a good 2009!
--------------------
"Not what we have but what we enjoy, constitutes our abundance." - John Petit-Senn
|
need 4 speed
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 11/01/03
Posts: 2687
Loc: SoCal
|
|
N OC beach breaks were doing it too
--------------------
NOT THAT KIND
|
20W-50 and blood
Duke status
Reged: 02/04/04
Posts: 16765
Loc: SOCAL
|
|
be quiet
--------------------
Jesus was Mexican, Ronald Reagan was the devil, and the government is lying about 9-11.
|
Previous
Index
Next
Threaded
Edit
Reply
Quote
