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hallucinogenic_toreador
Phil Edwards status
Reged: 03/31/06
Posts: 5952
Loc: socal beachbreak barrels
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Re: 2007 Surf Journal
03/26/07 02:55 PM
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Quote:
I was surfing my MTF and it was going off. Caught a ton of waves, and started to get fatigued just as the wind was picking up. Snuck a bit north of the mini-pack and hoped for a wide swinger. BINGO. Got my wave of the day and headed in. It was such a cooker of a wave that I couldn't piece together the whole wave in my mind as I was walking down the beach. Didn't remember it that one lipper came after that other turn, or if they both were after that semi-floater thingy. It was all happening too fast. That board is HOT. A keeper for sure.
i could've used a little MTF magic this past weekend...waves were OK (2-4'+, wierd slightly weak peaks and crumbly walls mixed in), but not quite good enough for the 6'4" deep single concave CI FIVE thruster...maybe if i'd been more on my game, but i just couldn't get it going well consistently, although I did get two barrel rides, and a couple decent waves back at my my old homespot in oxnard.
thank-god i still have family living there to stay with on the weekend.
hopefully, my last session gets erased quickly...aaarggghhh!
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"...we woke up to perfect lefts, and that was our mission."
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