yesterday evening at the north end of 'Secret Service': 3-5' NW swell, consistent, and semi-crowded from the middle all the way to the north end with just about every guy out being a B+ grade surfer or better!
man, everyone was ripping. i'm used to that at the other end, but what a trip it was without hardly any waves getting through un-shredded. there were a couple lesser guys here and there, but the level of surfing was really up there...tons of recognized guys, but there was a ton of guys i'd never seen before, and a whole crew from san diego, too.
tons of A-frames coming in, and also a lot of semi-walled left peaks stacking in and running up from the middle.
the bottom is still not quite right there, but the extreme negative tide helped alleviate some of what its been suffering from lately on many days, and it maintained well despite the wierd southwind action that was tearing up a lot of spots.
i showed up at 2:30, and there was only a handful of guys out, went to go check a couple other spots, and by the time i got back, there was probably 40 guys out.
its been a pretty good october/november season for me...seems like i've been able score several times a week easy.
been riding the 6'4" CI deep single concave FIVE exclusively, and it was the ticket yesterday, but on the smaller days, i'm really missing my 6'2" mayhem sdIV quad.
"...we woke up to perfect lefts, and that was our mission."