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Bonzer5Fin
Tom Curren status
Reged: 05/09/06
Posts: 10114
Loc: Souther Hell
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Re: 2007 Surf Journal
12/05/07 07:41 PM
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Hit it up north early wife my wife and a friend. Surfed the spit. Kinda fat on the high tide, 9 out of 10 waves were a bit mushy. Then that one would bomb off the rocks and explode, sucking sand all up the face. I got around a couple dozen, not snaking anyone, and now that I think of it, no one even snaked me. It was crowded, too. Even a water photog with a flash really early on.
Headed down to the queen and got some fun, but short ones. It never really connected all the way through. There were still some biggish sets, but overall it was smaller than yesterday, for sure. I did get destroyed in the cove by a rogue 12'+ plus face set, about 5 of them. I was swept to the freeway. Good time out there. My wife hadn't even watched me surf in a long time, and I got her behind the camera. Not many pics, but she wanted to be around. She knew I knew Peter. Wifes watching you surf has never ruined surfing.
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"Waves are too important to let surfers decide who catches them! "
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