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squeekie
Michael Peterson status
Reged: 04/27/06
Posts: 2127
Loc: Capistrano Beach,CA
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Re: Whats the longest "hold down" you've lived through?
03/23/12 11:09 AM
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Now, don't laugh but this was at Sano on a consistant 6-8' day. I paddled for 25 minutes and couldn't make it out. Must have been 25 wave to a non stop set. I got 1/2 way out and said screw it and caught the white water in. I had my foot on the sand and thought " screw it" and paddled back out. I got all the way outside and was resting. I have this problem breathing because my diaphragm pushes into my lungs and I only get partial breaths. By the time I get outside I am almost to the point of hyperventilation. That ended when I lost 20 lbs.
So, I'm sitting up and catching my breath and I look towards the beach and think " that is a long way out" and I see a buddy paddle by. I say hi and he says" better start scratching" I think "huh" and turn around and see 3 waves the size of a house and walled up 50 yards in both directions. The first wave is already starting to feather and I see the second behind it already starting to break. The first wave is about 75 feet from me.
My heart went through my throat. I was still 1/2 breathed and had to decide to sit and hope it broke and lose some energy or dive to the bottom... I laid down and scratched as hard as I could and started up the first wave.But the top 4' of the wave was white water and just ripped me apart. I lost the board and came up with no oxygen in my lungs. Like I said I was 25 lbs overweight and had a heavy 4/3 full suit on. I felt like a lead anchor.I could hear the second wave breaking and I yanked the leash hard and pointed the 10'6" towards the shore and laid on the back 1/3'rd of the board and got propelled into space. I was flying out of the water and coming down into the trough of the wave nose first. I knew if I pearled I was going to drown either by this one or the third wave. I put my knee down on the tail and pushed hard while lifting the nose and hit the bottom and skipped 3 or 4 times and braced for the next hit. I hit me and I held on. I watched the faces of 3 other guys I know who ate the first one and where just getting ready to turtle on the wave I was taking in. All had big bulging eyes.
It's hell being 60....
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Ward, weren't you a little rough on the Beaver last night?
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