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RemyXO
Michael Peterson status

Reged: 03/12/03
Posts: 2743
Loc: SLO CAL
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Re: Whats the longest "hold down" you've lived through?
03/23/12 04:54 PM
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Don't laugh, but my worst was at Morro Rock. I generally surf there when its big because it's easy to jump out with the rip at the inlet for an easy paddle out to the lineup. This day was 2OH and when it gets this size, it usually starts closing out, but this day was pretty peaky and breaking by birdshit rock.
Anyhow, I was in position for the first wave of the set, and started paddling with some one who was inside me. We were both scratching for it and I gave up to let him have it. I turn around and see the few people in the lineup paddle out back for a huge one, and here I was stuck inside.
Usually the wave is a slopey, thick, not too hollow wave, but the wave coming toward me was nasty looking, just a crazy-looking A frame created by the backwash bouncing off the rock and into the wave. The beast broke top-to bottom hitting me square as I dove deep. It's a deep water break, and I was pushed pretty deep and far in, head over heels the entire time. Not sure how long I was under, but it was the deepest and longest I experienced. I took three more walls of whitewater and left after that. I was completely spent, and didn't feel like dodging bombs I was unprepared for.
-------------------- The world is full of idiots, that's why I don't live there.
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