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Peter1
Grom
 
Reged: 07/29/05
Posts: 150
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Re: Whats the longest "hold down" you've lived through?
03/24/12 05:10 AM
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West Side Oahu, around 1999. I went out at Maili Point on a borrowed longboard in a rising swell -- followed a friend of mine and a local he knew. I'd only surfed there in small stuff and didn't realize there was an outside peak. They were out on the main peak (on longboards too) while I was catching some of the side waves. I noticed they were really digging for the outside but figured I was safe...weeellll, you know the drill, cleanup set, separated from board, ragdoll, gasp for breath, bam, into the reef. A whole bowl of Not Good.
The thing I learned from that beating was that you gotta know the lineup and bottom contours if you're gonna go out on a big day.
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