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bigsurfer67
Nep status
Reged: 12/28/08
Posts: 878
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Re: Whats the longest "hold down" you've lived through?
03/24/12 08:36 PM
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I remember the Wedge was huge one day got caught inside by a monster set that held me under for some time and ripped off a fin. Luckily it was close to shore...was pretty skinned up from dragging on the sand in the whitewater.
I lived in Hawaii for a while in the early 90's and remember taking my 8'6" Country Surfboards gun out at Sunset on a big day (8 to 10 Hawaiian). Was pretty new to the islands and not used to Hawaiian power...a number of locals were watching but not going out. Paddled out and finally made it way out when a clean up West set came in...must have been 20 foot face or so. I never duck dived a wave that big so I bailed on the board and made it through the pitching lip cleanly. Unfortunately, my board got destroyed and broke in half. Took some big ones on the had through the heavy rip current on the long swim in. Found the other half way down past backyards...all of the bottom glass ripped off...completely unfixable. Have a picture of that broken board somewhere...a definite learning experience. Went to Pipe after and just watched the guys there...was Huge!
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